Educational materials.
Useful and educational material.
Reinforce practical knowledge with theoretical knowledge.
1. Mannequin layout. Introduction.
The markings are the construction lines needed to create clothes using the fastening method (also known as the Layout method of making clothes). The marking is applied to the mannequin using a narrow elastic band or braid (0.5cm). The braid is fixed on the mannequin with tailor’s pins without a head.
What is the fastening method? This is a method of creating clothing models directly on a mannequin or human figure using mock-up fabric and pins. This method allows you to visually reproduce the conceived model, its proportions, volume, cut, balance, the ratio of its individual parts, etc.
This method does not use calculation methods or graphic drawings. The future model is literally pinned on a mannequin, and we cut off all unnecessary from a whole piece of fabric.
Where is the fastening method applied? The horizons of application of this method are unusually wide. It is actively used in mass production of clothing to create accurate, well-fitting patterns. Fashion students use this method to create their projects and graduation collections. Designers use it to find new shapes for their clothing lines. If you narrow the scope of this method, then it may well be used in the studio, as well as tailors working at home.
The braid is placed on the mannequin with special care, because. the markup of the mannequin is a very important point in the fastening method. Incorrect markup can lead to incorrect product balance and modeling errors. With the markup of the mannequin, it is much easier, faster and more accurate to make patterns. It is highly recommended to mark the entire mannequin, not just half, for easy fastening of asymmetric items.
It is not recommended to use the seam lines on the mannequin cover for fastening, as the mannequin is made by human hands and may have some measurement errors. If you take two mannequins of the same size and the same manufacturer, then their measurements can vary between 0.5-1 cm. Therefore, it is recommended to mark the mannequin before proceeding with fastening.
2. Mannequin layout. Continuation.
Shelf center line
We start marking the mannequin with the Line of the Middle of the Shelf.
We place the braid vertically in the center of the mannequin shelf, starting from the neckline and to the base of the mannequin. The Shelf Center Line should be perpendicular to the floor. Secure the braid with pins at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other
In order to mark the Line of the Middle of the Back, we need to take the following measurements:
• Neck girth
• Chest circumference (measured at the widest point of the top of the mannequin)
• Waist circumference (measured at the narrowest point of the mannequin)
• Hip circumference (measured at the widest point of the bottom of the mannequin)
We divide all the obtained measurements by two. Starting from the middle of the shelf, set aside all the measurements obtained and put pins. We place the braid vertically through all the pins. We fix the braid with pins.
The lines of the Middle of the Shelf and the Back divide the mannequin into two parts, right and left.
Measure both parts of the mannequin at the Neck Line, Chest Line, Waist Line and Hip Line. The measurements should be the same on both sides.
Neckline
We place the braid along the line of the base of the neck of the Shelf and Back should be at an angle of 90 mannequin, fasten with pins. Crossing degrees. Neck Lines with Center Lines
We divide all the obtained measurements by two. Starting from the middle of the shelf, set aside all the measurements obtained and put pins. We place the braid vertically through all the pins. We fix the braid with pins.
The lines of the Middle of the Shelf and the Back divide the mannequin into two parts, right and left.
Measure both parts of the mannequin at the Neck Line, Chest Line, Waist Line and Hip Line. The measurements should be the same on both sides.
Neckline
We place the braid along the line of the base of the neck of the Shelf and Back should be at an angle of 90 mannequin, fasten with pins. Crossing degrees. Neck Lines with Center Lines
Waistline
If the mannequin already has a braid along the waistline, then you can use it or prick your own over the existing one.
Depending on the manufacturer, the Waistline on the mannequin can be either horizontal, parallel to the floor, or slightly high in front. Both options work for us.
If there is no Waist Line marking on the mannequin, then we take a narrow lace and tie it rather tightly around the narrowest part of the mannequin. The lace will fall into the place where the waist should be.
Pins mark the position of the Waist Line. Make sure that the pins on the sides are at the same level.
We lay the braid along the intended pins and fasten.
NB : Waistline does not have to be parallel to the floor!
Hip line
Determine the position of the Hip Line.
The hip line is the widest point on the bottom of the mannequin.
We apply a ruler to the side line of the mannequin. Make sure the ruler is perpendicular to the floor. We find the point of intersection of the ruler and the side line and put a pin. This point will be the Hip Line.
We measure the distance from the pin to the base of the mannequin (vertically down).
We measure the same distance from the base of the mannequin along the Line of the Middle of the Shelf, along the Line of the Middle of the Back and from the other side of the mannequin and put pins. We lay the braid through the pins and fasten.
The intersection of the Line of the Hips with the lines of the Middle of the Shelf and Back should be at right angles. If necessary, align the braid.
NB: Please note that the level of the Hip Line is measured from the base of the mannequin and not from the Waist Line, because in some cases, as mentioned above, the Waist Line is too high in front and therefore not parallel to the floor line. And the Hip Line must be parallel to the floor line and the base of the mannequin.
Chest line
In order to determine the position of the Chest Line level, we need to find the Chest Height point. This is the most protruding point of the mannequin.
We turn the mannequin sideways and determine this point by eye. We put a pin. We measure the distance from the pin to the line of the hips. Using this measurement, place pins along the Center Line of the Shelf, Center Line of the Back and along the sides of the mannequin.
We place the braid through the pins and fasten. We make sure that the braid is perpendicular to the Line of the Middle of the Shelf and Back and parallel to the floor.
Perhaps a slight adjustment is required on the back, you can do it by eye.
3. Mannequin layout. Conclusion.
Side seam
In order to determine the location of the side seam, the following measurements must be taken.
We measure the distance from the Line of the Middle of the Shelf to the Line of the Middle of the Back along the Line of the Chest, the Line of the Waist and the Line of the Hips.
From the Line of the Middle of the Shelf, we measure 1/2 of the measurements taken + 1 cm along the corresponding lines and put pins. We place the braid through these three pins and fasten.
Suppose, in my case, the measurement from the Line of the Middle of the Shelf to the Line of the Middle of the back along the chest is 44 cm. seam. We do the same along the Waist and Hips Lines.
We find the position of the point of the side seam along the waist line according to the already known formula 1 \ 2 FROM \ 2 + 1 cm and connect this point with the end shoulder point.
The point of intersection of this line with the Line of the chest will be the point of the side seam along the Line of the chest.
To determine the position of the side seam from the waist to the bottom, you can use a plumb line.
Attach the plumb line at the intersection of the Waistline and the Side Seam and release the plumb line freely. Place pins at the intersection of the plumb line with the Hip Line and the bottom line of the mannequin. Place the braid through these pins and fasten it.
Shoulder line
For the design of the Shoulder Line, it is also necessary to take some measurements from the mannequin.
We measure the distance from the Line of the Middle of the Shelf to the Line of the Middle of the Back along the neckline. Divide the resulting measurement by two and add 1 cm.
We postpone the result obtained from the Line of the Middle of the Shelf along the neck line towards the back and put a pin. This is the starting point of the Shoulder Seam.
To determine the end point of the Shoulder Seam, the next measurement must be taken. We measure the distance from point A through the shoulder to point B with a centimeter tape. Divide the resulting measurement by 2 and add 1 cm. Now we set aside this measurement from point A along the shoulder, towards the shelf and put a pin. We lay the braid through 2 pins and fasten.
Princess Line
Line “Princess” runs along the front and back. In the classic version, the “Princess” line runs along the middle of the shoulder seam.
We measure the shoulder seam from the base of the neck to the end shoulder point, find the middle of the shoulder seam and put a pin.
On the shelf Line “Princess” runs from the middle of the shoulder, through the Center of the Breast and then we place the braid along the seams of the mannequin. We make sure that from the Line of the Hips the Line of “Princess” runs strictly vertically.
On the back we continue the Line of “Princess” from the middle of the shoulder and along the seams of the mannequin.
Blade level
Shoulder level is the widest point on the top of the back of the manikin. To determine the location of the Shoulder Level, measure the distance from the neckline to the waist along the Mid-Back Line. The resulting measurement is divided by four. We postpone 1/4 measurements from the Neck Line and put a pin. We place the braid horizontally, perpendicular to the Back Center Line.
Chest width line
We measure the distance from the Neck Line to the Chest Line along the Line of the Middle of the Shelf. The resulting measurement is divided by three. We set aside 1/3 measurements from the Neck Line and put a pin. We place the braid horizontally (perpendicular to the Line of the Middle of the Shelf) and fasten it with pins.
Armhole
As an addition, you can mark the upper part of the armhole. Lay the tape from the level of the Width of the Chest on the shelf to the Level of the Shoulders on the back. Fasten with pins. It is not necessary to decorate the lower part of the armhole on the mannequin.
“Bust bridge” (bridge across the chest)
We cut off a strip of mock-up fabric 5-6 cm wide. We iron it so that we end up with a strip 3 cm wide. The length of the strip depends on the size of the mannequin and does not reach the side seam by about five centimeters ..
We place the “Bridge” along the Line of the Chest, fix it on both sides. DO NOT fasten the “Bridge” along the Center Line of the Shelf!
On the “Bridge” we designate the point Center of the Chest and the point of intersection of the Line of the Chest and the Line of the Middle of the Shelf.
A “bridge” is commonly used on all types of off shoulder casual wear to ensure a proper fit around the bust. For tattooing products with a smell, deep cuts and in some other cases, the “Bridge” is removed from the mannequin.
Mannequin with markings
We check once again the position of all constructive lines. We look to ensure that all vertical lines are perpendicular to the floor, and horizontal lines are parallel to the floor. We check that all lines, where necessary, are at an angle of 90 degrees.
In the process of creating products, we will add model lines, which, after the product is tattooed, are removed from the mannequin. But the constructive lines remain, we do not remove them from the mannequin!
If you used a narrow elastic band for marking, then over time it will stretch and sag a little, therefore, from time to time it is recommended to remove the markings of the mannequin and mark them again.
Now the manikin is ready to go and you can start the fastening method!
4. Tools and materials.
Overview of mannequins
The mannequin is one of the main tools in the creation of clothes using the fastening method. With its help, designers find new forms and images. Designers and tailors use a mannequin to try on and fit a garment.
Mannequins can be divided into two groups: tailor’s and showcase. Tailor’s mannequins, in turn, are also divided into two groups: mannequins of standard sizes and sliding ones.
Tailor’s mannequins
Mannequins of standard sizes are presented in a wide range: children’s, men’s, women’s, mannequins with removable arms. There are also mannequins for pants, underwear and swimwear, maternity mannequins and plus size mannequins.
The most common type of mannequin used by designers is the professional female mannequin torso. It has standard sizes and quite modern forms of the human body. 90% of all clothes are created using these mannequins.
It has a stable metal base on wheels for easy movement and rotation of the dummy.
The mannequin is covered with a thin layer of synthetic winterizer and tailor’s pins are easily stuck into it. This is a very important point!
Each clothing manufacturer chooses the size of the mannequin that suits them. Usually, an average size is taken, for the convenience of subsequent gradation. For example, you are going to produce clothes with a size range from size 42 to size 50, in this case it is better to purchase a size 46 mannequin.
If you are planning to make clothes for yourself, then you should take a mannequin one size smaller than your clothing size. Then you can adjust the mannequin to your size, where necessary.
If you are planning to create catwalk collections, then you need a size 42 or 44 mannequin. The same mannequin is usually purchased by students of design schools, since the result of all their studies at school is a final collection that will be presented on the podium on real models.
Tailor’s sliding
The next version of mannequins is tailor’s sliding ones. Of course, they are very convenient for tailors. The size of the mannequin can be adjusted to suit different clients. However, they are not suitable for creating clothes using the fastening method.
Among the shortcomings are the following:
• Such mannequins are usually plastic, and it is not convenient to stick needles into them
• They are light and unstable, which is also a big minus.
• When expanding to large sizes, gaps are formed between the sections
• The protrusion of the shoulder does not allow the detachable arm to be properly attached
If you have just such a sliding mannequin, then it can be slightly adjusted and used to create clothes using the fastening method at the initial stage. The gaps between the sections can be closed with a cloth. If necessary, you can add overlays from synthetic winterizer, where necessary, to create more accurate contours of the figure. On top of the mannequin, you can put on a knitted T-shirt.
Showcase
The next type of mannequins is display cases. They are absolutely not suitable for creating clothes! Their task is to sell clothes, which they do very well.
For us, they are not suitable for many reasons. The proportions of such mannequins are often slightly distorted in order to present the product in the most favorable perspective for the seller.
The waist is narrowed, the shoulders are too sloping or vice versa. In addition, most often they are plastic without any coating.
Conclusion
So, we looked at several options for mannequins and found out that the most suitable option is a professional tailor’s mannequin torso of a standard size. It is made of papier-mâché, has a thin synthetic padding and is covered with linen material. It also has a stable metal base on wheels for ease of movement.
As an addition to the full length mannequin, you can also purchase a 1/2 size mannequin. This is an exact copy of the mannequin, reduced by half. Such a mannequin is very useful for finding new shapes and creating fantasy designs in clothes.
Materials for marking the mannequin
To mark the mannequin, a narrow braid or elastic band 0.5 cm wide is used. It is recommended to use contrasting tape or elastic so that all design lines are visible on the mannequin. If you have a white mannequin, then it is recommended to use black or red braid, if the mannequin is black, then white braid is ideal.
There are two types of braid: regular and glue-coated. The adhesive coating is not a reliable thing, therefore it is better to fix both ordinary and adhesive tape with tailor’s pins.
Headless tailor’s pins are used to secure the braid on the mannequin to create flat seams. Pins with a head are used for the fastening process itself and for connecting parts from a breadboard fabric to each other. You will also need a centimeter tape and small scissors to mark the mannequin.